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Louis Vuitton Homme Automne-Hiver 2014-2015

The Louis Vuitton traveller this season takes a digital look, from above, at the wonders of the plains of South America.

“Our collections have always been about travel,” says Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, “but the idea this time was technical travel, digital travel, the implications of the fact that we can now see the world through a screen. We looked at NASA maps of the world from space, and at aerial photographs of  Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert, and the Nazca Lines in Peru. Then, we went into those areas and found the finest local materials. The idea this season is combine these refined fabrications with the notion of digital, new age travel, of never being in one place. As is the tradition of Louis Vuitton, there’s a focus on craftsmanship, but technology was important; I didn’t want to make something rustic or nostalgic. It had to feel technical and modern.”

While this collection plays on the digital, nothing has been copied and pasted.  Instead, Jones and his team have used their research as a basis to develop new ideas, using their unique combination of cutting-edge innovation and traditional craftsmanship.  Jones has collected digital images, which he uses as a counterpoint to his collection, providing a technical contrast with his luxurious products that have been painstakingly made by experts and by hand.  Advanced performance details are combined with the most sophisticated natural fabrics.  Traditional materials are transformed into new colours and textures, with the introduction of  Damier Cobalt, and artisanal re-working of house leathers.   Animal geoglyph motifs from the Nazca Lines, are woven into knitwear using extreme-vicuña, a rare wool made from only the finest hairs of the vicuña camelid.  Even the surface of the catwalk resembling an aerial photograph of the Atacama desertscape, has been painstakingly painted by hand. That same aerial photography has inspired an earthy colour palette transposed throughout the collection – daywear and tailoring, outdoor wear, evening and loungewear – featuring flashes of cashmere, vicuña, chinchilla, alpacca, python, silk, and new incarnations of the house’s trademark leathers.

This season, tailoring has been approached completely anew. Suiting has been reconfigured to be lighter and slimmer, and a new combination of wool and mohair – crease-resistant, optimal for travelling – has been introduced. Shoulders have been rebuilt around hand stitching and light canvas, and throughout the collection lapels are peaked in a nod to the suits worn by Hiram Bingham III, the adventurer and treasure hunter believed to have discovered Machu Picchu. Coats are made from the double-faced cashmere of the blankets that Jones introduced to Vuitton in his first season, and some have subtle hints of Peruvian detailing, such as needle-punched horizontal stripes. Silhouettes are graphic and clean, falling from a strong, round shoulder, appearing almost two dimensional, as if viewed on a screen.

A further graphic element comes in the form of Kim Jones’ new inky-blue version of the house’s classic Damier motif; Damier Cobalt. “I always think of midnight blue as being very Parisian,” Jones says. “I wanted to redevelop the Damier in some way, and for me this was the most logical. It fits with my passion for colour, but it’s also discrete enough to be appropriate for business.” The new Damier Cobalt appears on a special version of the classic Keepall bag, as well as on totes, messengers and folios. All of the bags have been modernised with tonal versions of the masculine Vuitton trunk handle, combining metal and leatherwork.  Many of the bags feature Jones’ signature nylon webbing straps; a trolley bag, a duffle with optional backpack straps, as well as backpack-hybrid Keepall, and a new east-west tote with compartments perfectly designed for convenience at airport security.  Many of the bags can be folded down this season, showcasing the new leathers of the season:  a nubuck featuring a grain inspired by Epi, a silver mirrored calf debossed with the Damier check, and rubberized leather trimming the technical damier bags.  An ultra-soft crocodile is used to make folded volumes, a new tablet pochette, and a metal trimmed version of the classic Atoll travel wallet. What appear to be solid miniature folios are actually folding travel games, cast in metal and veneered in Macassar ebony. The game motif also shows up in the shape of geometric cube formations of crystal and metal that hang from pendants and bags, reintroductions of Pateki, a puzzle invented by Gaston-Louis Vuitton in the 1920s.

The combination of technical, practical, modern detail with traditional fine leather is echoed in the shoes, which this season have been edited down to just three styles: a Derby city shoe available in glazed calfskin, velvety grained-nubuck or crocodile; a city ankle boot-hybrid in glazed calf with a padded nappa ankle, rubber inserts on the toe and microfibre sole inserts for lightness.

The spirit of luxury adventure carries into the collection’s outdoor wear and knitwear. Opulent homage is paid to quintessential outdoor: a reversible zip-up sweater is constructed from panels of shearling, chinchilla-lined silk is detailed with heat-sealed zippers and seams, a wind breaker is made in python skin and finished with a calf-leather hood, and hand-knitted strips of cashmere are used as fur. A robe is made from double-faced vicuña, classic pants are finished with technical cuffs and reversible coats and blousons are made from cashmere and silk. A development of the Peruvian stripe motif appears on scarves and blankets, while the Damier check is used to create a woven tonal detail and appliquéd onto knitwear as a pattern formed by Aztec-style snakes made of sliced stone. Wool from the huarizo, an alpaca-llama crossbreed, is used to create heavy looking pieces that are light to wear.

As the collection moves into evening, it again calls on a big, bold silhouette, in the form of a double-faced-cashmere double-breasted coat, worn over a double-breasted evening suit. A lounge feel is introduced by a blouson in extreme-vicuña, with knitted rib details, which, along with the other vicuña and crocodile pieces from this collection will be exclusively available as part of Louis Vuitton men’s Made-to-Order service. Evening suits in dégradé silk are worn over micro-checked and striped shirts, while lounge pants, T-shirts and sweatshirts are detailed with an artisan crochet stitch: even these most relaxed pieces are finished to impeccable standards of craftsmanship. Scarves are made from silk twill with subtle chevrons and stripes, and a take on a South American herringbone.

Every look in the collection comes with sunglasses in a different colourway. All of them have adjustable arms and are designed to be truly practical for the modern explorer. The jewellery in the collection belies Jones’ interest in geology. It’s all made of gems and stones: smoky quartz, rough amethyst, ionite, and jasper, the veins of which echo the view of the earth from above. They’ve been cut into solid rings which are then lined with metal and worn on scarves round the neck, while larger shards have been fused together like rock formations for pendants and key-chains. Bracelets are made of chain links cut using the same technique as that employed for the rings: natural crystals used in a way that, like the rest of the collection, is strikingly elegant but uniquely masculine.

LOOK 1
MARC-ANDRE
– Navy double-faced cashmere border stripe robe coat with stone buttons
– Navy chiné performance wool double-breasted travel suit
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and red silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 2
JACK C
– Grey double-faced cashmere border stripe double-breasted overcoat with stone buttons
– Anthracite hopsack wool double-breasted travel suit
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Beige and burgundy silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 3
THIBAUD
– Grey brushed cashmere single-breasted travel suit
– Navy technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe shirt
– Pale blue wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt folded folio with blue metal trunk handle
– Tan calf leather Derby

LOOK 4
LAURIE
– Grey double-faced brushed cashmere double-breasted overcoat with stone buttons
– Anthracite wool and mohair single-breasted travel suit
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt folded drawing folio with blue metal trunk handle
– Black calf leather Derby

LOOK 5 ANDREW
– Grey and navy wool needle-punched tweed raglan-sleeved coat
– Blue grey wool plain weave double-breasted travel suit
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Brown and grey technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe thin scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 6
CHARLIE F
– Grey wool needle-punched tweed dropped shoulder blouson
– Silver and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Anthracite wool mohair travel suit trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey cashmere ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt folded tote with blue metal trunk handle
– Anthracite calf leather walking boots

LOOK 7
MAX S
– Grey wool melton selvedge stripe raglan-sleeved coat
– Dark brown hopsack wool double-breasted travel suit
– Torttoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and red silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Red and grey silk Atacama stripe thin scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 8
ABEL
– Navy wool melton selvedge stripe peacoat
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Anthracite alpaca blend and baby alpaca fur hand-knitted cardigan
– Rock crystal necklace
– Navy and red wool mohair Piura stripe
– Damier Cobalt large east west tote with blue metal trunk handle and metal flask
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 9
KARLIS
– Anthracite alpaca blend and baby alpaca fur hand-knitted v-neck sweater
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt – Anthracite nubuck micro Epi large tote with metal ‘crystal’ charm
– Brown calf leather Derby

LOOK 10
ALEK S
– Beige nubuck micro Epi leather and baby alpaca fur aviator
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Beige wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe thin scarf
– Landscape jasper and metal rings
– Dark brown hopsack wool travel suit trousers
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 11
CHARLIE A
– Beige double-faced cashmere robe coat with baby alpaca fur front and stone buttons
– Anthracite wool plain weave single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 12
TOMMASO
– Beige and grey alpaca blanket stripe dropped shoulder blouson
– Navy and purple technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Blue wool and mohair travel suit trousers
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Blue silk Atacama satellite thin scarf
– Moss agate and metal rings
– Anthracite nubuck micro Epi tote messenger
– Anthracite calf leather walking boots

LOOK 13
GEORGE
– Beige and grey alpaca blanket stripe classic coat
– Blue and beige wool mohair Piura stripe single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Silver and black technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt – Anthracite nubuck micro Epi folded folio
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 14
BEN A
– Turquoise and blue angora blanket stripe sweater
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Blue silk Atacama satellite pocket square with stone and metal rings
– Turquoise and blue wool, mohair and silk Lima stripe travel suit trousers
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 15
MAX R
– Turquoise and blue alpaca blanket stripe classic coat
– Turquoise wool mohair double-breasted travel suit
– Navy technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 16
GUERRINO
– Beige cashmere mohair sweater with stone embroidery
– Beige and green technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool trekking trousers
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 17
TIMUR
– Gold cashmere double-face kimono cut sweater
– Purple and red technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Gold wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Anthracite wool and mohair trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Damier Cobalt backpack with blue webbing
– Black and white nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 18
ALMANTAS – Gold and grey technical silk and brushed cashmere reversible bomber
– Tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Anthracite hopsack wool trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey cashmere mohair ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical suitcase with contrast coloured webbing and Damier Cobalt
and blue leather card holder
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 19
KRISTOFFER
– Grey and gold brushed cashmere and technical silk trenchcoat
– Anthracite wool and mohair single-breasted travel jacket
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue, mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Landscape jasper necklace
– Anthracite brushed cashmere lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 20
FREDERIK
– Burgundy and navy technical silk and brushed cashmere reversible parka
– Burgundy brushed cashmere double-breasted travel suit
– Black technical sunglasses with red mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Blue silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical weekend messenger with contrast coloured webbing
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 21
JIN
– Navy, blue and burgundy technical silk trekking parka with removable chinchilla
lining
– Blue wool mohair plain weave single-breasted travel jacket
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Burgundy and red technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy parachute silk wrap trousers
– Damier Cobalt and burgundy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt large Keepall with navy metal and crocodile flask
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 22
ABIAH – Navy, blue and burgundy technical silk trekking blouson with removable chinchilla
lining
– Black technical sunglasses with red mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool mohair plain weave double-breasted travel jacket
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy parachute silk wrap trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Burgundy cashmere ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical duffle backpack with contrast coloured webbing and Damier
Cobalt water bottle
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 23
ANDREAS
– Ivory wool hand-knitted cable mock neck sweater
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Navy mountaineer’s twill trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 24
MAKSIM
– Burgundy, turquoise and navy reversible shearling fleece parka
– Black technical sunglasses with blue polarised lenses
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy shearling trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and burgundy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Navy cashmere mohair ribbed mittens
– Burgundy and turquoise nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots
LOOK 25
LUCAS
– Burgundy and turquoise reversible shearling fleece jacket
– Navy technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy cashmere ribbed mittens
– Burgundy shearling trekking trousers
– Brown nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 26
JASON
– Navy, burgundy and turquoise reversible shearling fleece gilet
– Teal and purple technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Burgundy wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Navy shearling trekking trousers
– Navy nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 27 GUSTAAF
– Ivory alpaca blend nazca monkey embroidered sweater
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with gold mirrored lenses
– Navy and gold silk Cusco stripe pocket square with stone and metal rings
– Dark brown shearling trekking trousers
– Landscape jasper and metal chain bracelet
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 28
MATTHEW
– Midnight blue python wrap blouson
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy alpaca silk knitted sweatshirt
– Navy parachute silk zrap trousers
– Mirrored calf leather embossed Damier technical weekend messenger with navy
webbing and small blue metal and crocodile flask
– Black and white nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 29
HARRY C
– Burgundy tweed melton wool and shearling jacket
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Dark brown shearling trekking trousers
– Mirrored calf leather embossed Damier technical weekend messenger with navy
webbing
– Burgundy and turquoise nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 30
ADAM
– Navy tweed melton wool and shearling coat
– Teal and purple technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy shearling trekking trousers
– Navy nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Navy silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 31
JOURDAN – Navy and gold brushed double-face cashmere double-breasted overcoat with stone
butons
– Navy brushed cashmere double-breasted travel suit
– Tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Navy and red silk Atacama stripe thin scarf
– Tan veg-tanned calf folded folio with metal trunk handle
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 32
DARWIN
– Navy brushed double-face cashmere tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy brushed double-face cashmere lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite crocodile metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Black crocodile Derby

LOOK 33
CHARLIE F second look
– Double-face vicuna blouson
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Anthracite brushed double-face cashmere tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Iron eye, moss agate and metal rings
– Anthracite brushed cashmere lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Tan crocodile Keepall with small metal flask
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 34
ALEX BECK
– Extreme vicuna single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Beige wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Anthracite crocodile folded tote messenger with metal trunk handle
– Tan calf leather Derby

LOOK 35
TAYLOR
– Extreme vicuna tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Extreme vicuna lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Tan crocodile metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 36
JACK C second look
– Grey extreme vicuna long-sleeved tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Grey extreme vicuna lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Iron eye and metal ring
– Tan veg-tanned calf folded tote messenger with metal trunk handle with rock crystal
charm
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 37
MAX S second look
– Double-face vicuna dressing gown
– Grey extreme vicuna double-breasted travel suit
– Torttoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Navy and grey silk gingham thin scarf
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 38
FELIX G
– Grey and beige double-face cashmere dressing gown
– Silver and black technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Grey and beige cashmere silk double-face tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Grey and beige cashmere silk double-face lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail
and ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 39
CHARLIE A second look
– Grey and brown silk degradé stripe single-breasted travel jacket
– Crystal lapel pin
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with blue polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Anthracite hopsack wool lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt
– Zebra jasper and metal rings
– Anthracite crocodile folded folio with metal trunk handle
– Black crocodile Derby

LOOK 40
ANDREW second look
– Anthracite and grey wool silk degradé stripe double-breasted evening suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Grey and white technical sunglasses with mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Black silk marquetry jacquard evening scarf
– Macassar and ebony marquetry travel noughts and crosses set
– Amethyst and metal ring
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 41
THIBAUD second look
– Dark brown and anthracite wool silk degradé stripe single-breasted evening suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Macassar and ebony marquetry travel draughts set
– Iron eye and metal ring
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 42
MARC-ANDRE second look
– Black technical tuxedo silk evening trenchcoat
– Black technical tuxedo silk double-breasted evening suit
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Black silk marquetry jacquard evening scarf
– Rock crystal and smoked quartz necklace
– Zebra jasper and metal rings
– Black crocodile Derby

Crédit Défilé:Louis Vuitton / Ludwig Bonnet

Crédit Backstage: Louis Vuitton / Matthieu Dortomb

 

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Louis Vuitton Homme Automne-Hiver 2014-2015

The Louis Vuitton traveller this season takes a digital look, from above, at the wonders of the plains of South America. “Our collections have always been about travel,” says Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, “but the idea this time was technical travel, digital travel, the implications of the fact that we can now see the world […]

Louis Vuitton Homme Automne-Hiver 2014-2015
Christel Engström
Article
Christel Engström

The Louis Vuitton traveller this season takes a digital look, from above, at the wonders of the plains of South America.

“Our collections have always been about travel,” says Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, “but the idea this time was technical travel, digital travel, the implications of the fact that we can now see the world through a screen. We looked at NASA maps of the world from space, and at aerial photographs of  Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert, and the Nazca Lines in Peru. Then, we went into those areas and found the finest local materials. The idea this season is combine these refined fabrications with the notion of digital, new age travel, of never being in one place. As is the tradition of Louis Vuitton, there’s a focus on craftsmanship, but technology was important; I didn’t want to make something rustic or nostalgic. It had to feel technical and modern.”

While this collection plays on the digital, nothing has been copied and pasted.  Instead, Jones and his team have used their research as a basis to develop new ideas, using their unique combination of cutting-edge innovation and traditional craftsmanship.  Jones has collected digital images, which he uses as a counterpoint to his collection, providing a technical contrast with his luxurious products that have been painstakingly made by experts and by hand.  Advanced performance details are combined with the most sophisticated natural fabrics.  Traditional materials are transformed into new colours and textures, with the introduction of  Damier Cobalt, and artisanal re-working of house leathers.   Animal geoglyph motifs from the Nazca Lines, are woven into knitwear using extreme-vicuña, a rare wool made from only the finest hairs of the vicuña camelid.  Even the surface of the catwalk resembling an aerial photograph of the Atacama desertscape, has been painstakingly painted by hand. That same aerial photography has inspired an earthy colour palette transposed throughout the collection – daywear and tailoring, outdoor wear, evening and loungewear – featuring flashes of cashmere, vicuña, chinchilla, alpacca, python, silk, and new incarnations of the house’s trademark leathers.

This season, tailoring has been approached completely anew. Suiting has been reconfigured to be lighter and slimmer, and a new combination of wool and mohair – crease-resistant, optimal for travelling – has been introduced. Shoulders have been rebuilt around hand stitching and light canvas, and throughout the collection lapels are peaked in a nod to the suits worn by Hiram Bingham III, the adventurer and treasure hunter believed to have discovered Machu Picchu. Coats are made from the double-faced cashmere of the blankets that Jones introduced to Vuitton in his first season, and some have subtle hints of Peruvian detailing, such as needle-punched horizontal stripes. Silhouettes are graphic and clean, falling from a strong, round shoulder, appearing almost two dimensional, as if viewed on a screen.

A further graphic element comes in the form of Kim Jones’ new inky-blue version of the house’s classic Damier motif; Damier Cobalt. “I always think of midnight blue as being very Parisian,” Jones says. “I wanted to redevelop the Damier in some way, and for me this was the most logical. It fits with my passion for colour, but it’s also discrete enough to be appropriate for business.” The new Damier Cobalt appears on a special version of the classic Keepall bag, as well as on totes, messengers and folios. All of the bags have been modernised with tonal versions of the masculine Vuitton trunk handle, combining metal and leatherwork.  Many of the bags feature Jones’ signature nylon webbing straps; a trolley bag, a duffle with optional backpack straps, as well as backpack-hybrid Keepall, and a new east-west tote with compartments perfectly designed for convenience at airport security.  Many of the bags can be folded down this season, showcasing the new leathers of the season:  a nubuck featuring a grain inspired by Epi, a silver mirrored calf debossed with the Damier check, and rubberized leather trimming the technical damier bags.  An ultra-soft crocodile is used to make folded volumes, a new tablet pochette, and a metal trimmed version of the classic Atoll travel wallet. What appear to be solid miniature folios are actually folding travel games, cast in metal and veneered in Macassar ebony. The game motif also shows up in the shape of geometric cube formations of crystal and metal that hang from pendants and bags, reintroductions of Pateki, a puzzle invented by Gaston-Louis Vuitton in the 1920s.

The combination of technical, practical, modern detail with traditional fine leather is echoed in the shoes, which this season have been edited down to just three styles: a Derby city shoe available in glazed calfskin, velvety grained-nubuck or crocodile; a city ankle boot-hybrid in glazed calf with a padded nappa ankle, rubber inserts on the toe and microfibre sole inserts for lightness.

The spirit of luxury adventure carries into the collection’s outdoor wear and knitwear. Opulent homage is paid to quintessential outdoor: a reversible zip-up sweater is constructed from panels of shearling, chinchilla-lined silk is detailed with heat-sealed zippers and seams, a wind breaker is made in python skin and finished with a calf-leather hood, and hand-knitted strips of cashmere are used as fur. A robe is made from double-faced vicuña, classic pants are finished with technical cuffs and reversible coats and blousons are made from cashmere and silk. A development of the Peruvian stripe motif appears on scarves and blankets, while the Damier check is used to create a woven tonal detail and appliquéd onto knitwear as a pattern formed by Aztec-style snakes made of sliced stone. Wool from the huarizo, an alpaca-llama crossbreed, is used to create heavy looking pieces that are light to wear.

As the collection moves into evening, it again calls on a big, bold silhouette, in the form of a double-faced-cashmere double-breasted coat, worn over a double-breasted evening suit. A lounge feel is introduced by a blouson in extreme-vicuña, with knitted rib details, which, along with the other vicuña and crocodile pieces from this collection will be exclusively available as part of Louis Vuitton men’s Made-to-Order service. Evening suits in dégradé silk are worn over micro-checked and striped shirts, while lounge pants, T-shirts and sweatshirts are detailed with an artisan crochet stitch: even these most relaxed pieces are finished to impeccable standards of craftsmanship. Scarves are made from silk twill with subtle chevrons and stripes, and a take on a South American herringbone.

Every look in the collection comes with sunglasses in a different colourway. All of them have adjustable arms and are designed to be truly practical for the modern explorer. The jewellery in the collection belies Jones’ interest in geology. It’s all made of gems and stones: smoky quartz, rough amethyst, ionite, and jasper, the veins of which echo the view of the earth from above. They’ve been cut into solid rings which are then lined with metal and worn on scarves round the neck, while larger shards have been fused together like rock formations for pendants and key-chains. Bracelets are made of chain links cut using the same technique as that employed for the rings: natural crystals used in a way that, like the rest of the collection, is strikingly elegant but uniquely masculine.

LOOK 1
MARC-ANDRE
– Navy double-faced cashmere border stripe robe coat with stone buttons
– Navy chiné performance wool double-breasted travel suit
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and red silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 2
JACK C
– Grey double-faced cashmere border stripe double-breasted overcoat with stone buttons
– Anthracite hopsack wool double-breasted travel suit
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Beige and burgundy silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 3
THIBAUD
– Grey brushed cashmere single-breasted travel suit
– Navy technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe shirt
– Pale blue wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt folded folio with blue metal trunk handle
– Tan calf leather Derby

LOOK 4
LAURIE
– Grey double-faced brushed cashmere double-breasted overcoat with stone buttons
– Anthracite wool and mohair single-breasted travel suit
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt folded drawing folio with blue metal trunk handle
– Black calf leather Derby

LOOK 5 ANDREW
– Grey and navy wool needle-punched tweed raglan-sleeved coat
– Blue grey wool plain weave double-breasted travel suit
– Grey and turquoise silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Brown and grey technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe thin scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 6
CHARLIE F
– Grey wool needle-punched tweed dropped shoulder blouson
– Silver and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with mirrored Damier lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Anthracite wool mohair travel suit trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey cashmere ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt folded tote with blue metal trunk handle
– Anthracite calf leather walking boots

LOOK 7
MAX S
– Grey wool melton selvedge stripe raglan-sleeved coat
– Dark brown hopsack wool double-breasted travel suit
– Torttoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and red silk, wool and alpaca Atacama stripe fringed scarf
– Red and grey silk Atacama stripe thin scarf
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 8
ABEL
– Navy wool melton selvedge stripe peacoat
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Anthracite alpaca blend and baby alpaca fur hand-knitted cardigan
– Rock crystal necklace
– Navy and red wool mohair Piura stripe
– Damier Cobalt large east west tote with blue metal trunk handle and metal flask
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 9
KARLIS
– Anthracite alpaca blend and baby alpaca fur hand-knitted v-neck sweater
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt – Anthracite nubuck micro Epi large tote with metal ‘crystal’ charm
– Brown calf leather Derby

LOOK 10
ALEK S
– Beige nubuck micro Epi leather and baby alpaca fur aviator
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Beige wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy and cream silk Cusco stripe thin scarf
– Landscape jasper and metal rings
– Dark brown hopsack wool travel suit trousers
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 11
CHARLIE A
– Beige double-faced cashmere robe coat with baby alpaca fur front and stone buttons
– Anthracite wool plain weave single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 12
TOMMASO
– Beige and grey alpaca blanket stripe dropped shoulder blouson
– Navy and purple technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Blue wool and mohair travel suit trousers
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Blue silk Atacama satellite thin scarf
– Moss agate and metal rings
– Anthracite nubuck micro Epi tote messenger
– Anthracite calf leather walking boots

LOOK 13
GEORGE
– Beige and grey alpaca blanket stripe classic coat
– Blue and beige wool mohair Piura stripe single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Silver and black technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt – Anthracite nubuck micro Epi folded folio
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 14
BEN A
– Turquoise and blue angora blanket stripe sweater
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Blue silk Atacama satellite pocket square with stone and metal rings
– Turquoise and blue wool, mohair and silk Lima stripe travel suit trousers
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite calf leather Derby

LOOK 15
MAX R
– Turquoise and blue alpaca blanket stripe classic coat
– Turquoise wool mohair double-breasted travel suit
– Navy technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Cream wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy calf leather Derby

LOOK 16
GUERRINO
– Beige cashmere mohair sweater with stone embroidery
– Beige and green technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool trekking trousers
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 17
TIMUR
– Gold cashmere double-face kimono cut sweater
– Purple and red technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Gold wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Anthracite wool and mohair trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Damier Cobalt backpack with blue webbing
– Black and white nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 18
ALMANTAS – Gold and grey technical silk and brushed cashmere reversible bomber
– Tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Anthracite hopsack wool trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and grey webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey cashmere mohair ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical suitcase with contrast coloured webbing and Damier Cobalt
and blue leather card holder
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 19
KRISTOFFER
– Grey and gold brushed cashmere and technical silk trenchcoat
– Anthracite wool and mohair single-breasted travel jacket
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue, mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Landscape jasper necklace
– Anthracite brushed cashmere lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 20
FREDERIK
– Burgundy and navy technical silk and brushed cashmere reversible parka
– Burgundy brushed cashmere double-breasted travel suit
– Black technical sunglasses with red mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Blue silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical weekend messenger with contrast coloured webbing
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 21
JIN
– Navy, blue and burgundy technical silk trekking parka with removable chinchilla
lining
– Blue wool mohair plain weave single-breasted travel jacket
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Burgundy and red technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy parachute silk wrap trousers
– Damier Cobalt and burgundy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Grey silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt large Keepall with navy metal and crocodile flask
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 22
ABIAH – Navy, blue and burgundy technical silk trekking blouson with removable chinchilla
lining
– Black technical sunglasses with red mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool mohair plain weave double-breasted travel jacket
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy parachute silk wrap trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Burgundy cashmere ribbed mittens
– Damier Cobalt technical duffle backpack with contrast coloured webbing and Damier
Cobalt water bottle
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 23
ANDREAS
– Ivory wool hand-knitted cable mock neck sweater
– Navy and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Navy mountaineer’s twill trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and navy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 24
MAKSIM
– Burgundy, turquoise and navy reversible shearling fleece parka
– Black technical sunglasses with blue polarised lenses
– Navy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy shearling trekking trousers
– Damier Cobalt and burgundy webbing ‘S’ belt
– Navy cashmere mohair ribbed mittens
– Burgundy and turquoise nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots
LOOK 25
LUCAS
– Burgundy and turquoise reversible shearling fleece jacket
– Navy technical sunglasses with blue mirrored lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Burgundy cashmere ribbed mittens
– Burgundy shearling trekking trousers
– Brown nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Burgundy and red nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 26
JASON
– Navy, burgundy and turquoise reversible shearling fleece gilet
– Teal and purple technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Burgundy wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Navy shearling trekking trousers
– Navy nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 27 GUSTAAF
– Ivory alpaca blend nazca monkey embroidered sweater
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with gold mirrored lenses
– Navy and gold silk Cusco stripe pocket square with stone and metal rings
– Dark brown shearling trekking trousers
– Landscape jasper and metal chain bracelet
– Beige and grey nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 28
MATTHEW
– Midnight blue python wrap blouson
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy alpaca silk knitted sweatshirt
– Navy parachute silk zrap trousers
– Mirrored calf leather embossed Damier technical weekend messenger with navy
webbing and small blue metal and crocodile flask
– Black and white nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 29
HARRY C
– Burgundy tweed melton wool and shearling jacket
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy wool silk kimono sleeve Atacama sweater
– Dark brown shearling trekking trousers
– Mirrored calf leather embossed Damier technical weekend messenger with navy
webbing
– Burgundy and turquoise nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 30
ADAM
– Navy tweed melton wool and shearling coat
– Teal and purple technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Burgundy wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Navy shearling trekking trousers
– Navy nubuck micro Epi reversible belt
– Navy silk alpaca ribbed mittens
– Navy nubuck micro Epi and rubberised leather trekking boots

LOOK 31
JOURDAN – Navy and gold brushed double-face cashmere double-breasted overcoat with stone
butons
– Navy brushed cashmere double-breasted travel suit
– Tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Navy and red silk Atacama stripe thin scarf
– Tan veg-tanned calf folded folio with metal trunk handle
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 32
DARWIN
– Navy brushed double-face cashmere tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Navy brushed double-face cashmere lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite crocodile metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Black crocodile Derby

LOOK 33
CHARLIE F second look
– Double-face vicuna blouson
– Black and tortoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Anthracite brushed double-face cashmere tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Iron eye, moss agate and metal rings
– Anthracite brushed cashmere lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Tan crocodile Keepall with small metal flask
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 34
ALEX BECK
– Extreme vicuna single-breasted travel suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Beige wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Anthracite crocodile folded tote messenger with metal trunk handle
– Tan calf leather Derby

LOOK 35
TAYLOR
– Extreme vicuna tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Extreme vicuna lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Tan crocodile metal-framed Atoll travel wallet
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 36
JACK C second look
– Grey extreme vicuna long-sleeved tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Brown and green technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Grey extreme vicuna lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail and ‘S’ belt
– Iron eye and metal ring
– Tan veg-tanned calf folded tote messenger with metal trunk handle with rock crystal
charm
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 37
MAX S second look
– Double-face vicuna dressing gown
– Grey extreme vicuna double-breasted travel suit
– Torttoiseshell technical sunglasses with yellow lenses
– Navy and grey silk gingham thin scarf
– Tan crocodile Derby

LOOK 38
FELIX G
– Grey and beige double-face cashmere dressing gown
– Silver and black technical sunglasses with clear blue mirrored lenses
– Grey and beige cashmere silk double-face tunic with crochet stitch detail
– Grey and beige cashmere silk double-face lounge trousers with crochet stitch detail
and ‘S’ belt
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 39
CHARLIE A second look
– Grey and brown silk degradé stripe single-breasted travel jacket
– Crystal lapel pin
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with blue polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Anthracite hopsack wool lounge trousers with ‘S’ belt
– Zebra jasper and metal rings
– Anthracite crocodile folded folio with metal trunk handle
– Black crocodile Derby

LOOK 40
ANDREW second look
– Anthracite and grey wool silk degradé stripe double-breasted evening suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Grey and white technical sunglasses with mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit sweater
– Black silk marquetry jacquard evening scarf
– Macassar and ebony marquetry travel noughts and crosses set
– Amethyst and metal ring
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 41
THIBAUD second look
– Dark brown and anthracite wool silk degradé stripe single-breasted evening suit
– Rock crystal lapel pin
– Brown and black technical sunglasses with grey polarised lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Macassar and ebony marquetry travel draughts set
– Iron eye and metal ring
– Anthracite crocodile Derby

LOOK 42
MARC-ANDRE second look
– Black technical tuxedo silk evening trenchcoat
– Black technical tuxedo silk double-breasted evening suit
– Black and grey technical sunglasses with mirrored lenses
– Anthracite wool silk fine gauge knit vest
– Black silk marquetry jacquard evening scarf
– Rock crystal and smoked quartz necklace
– Zebra jasper and metal rings
– Black crocodile Derby

Crédit Défilé:Louis Vuitton / Ludwig Bonnet

Crédit Backstage: Louis Vuitton / Matthieu Dortomb

 

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